Sand the trim with a fine-grit sanding sponge. Sponges get into crevices where sandpaper can’t go and let you apply even pressure. Then apply the ﬁrst coat of paint, let it dry at least 24 hours, lightly sand it again for a completely smooth surface, and apply the second coat. After each sanding, vacuum the trim, then wipe it down with a tack cloth to remove the dust.
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Any of these primers may be used, depending on the conditions required on your home. Oil-based primers soak into new wood better and are also used on rusting areas, such as around gas meter, prior to painting. Oil-based primer works better in keeping steel gas meters and other steel surfaces from rusting in the future. Notice the amount of white primer in Figure 3, that Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. applies to give a professional looking finish. This photo also shows the efflorescence coming out of the concrete block foundation that was scraped off and treated with a Concrete & Masonry Primer designed to help control efflorescence.
If you want a quick caulking job, then Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. is not the contractor for you. We can also offer a highly flexible polyurethane sealant such as OSI Quad sealant, during new carpentry or siding installations. Notice how the 4x8 Hardboard siding is caulked around all edges, in Figure 4, with the exception of the bottom edge to prevent moisture from becoming trapped behind the panel.
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Primer/Paint: “The whole industry is shifting to combination primer and paint,” says Mauro. “That’s a good thing, since a lot of people skip the primer, and the combination is better than nothing.” Still, for an unfinished or problem surface, he always uses a stand-alone primer. And if he’ll be using a dark paint, he tints the primer with about 80% of the paint color to ensure that two topcoats will do the job.
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Prep. For new work the painter accepts the finish done by the drywall or plaster and once he accepts the work and starts painting he owns any wall repairs. Existing work is a different thing. I take a high intensity light and circle the kinds of defects with chalk so we are all in agreement before they start. Sometimes this results in a higher price and we have to compromise on how much to do...
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Not only do I agree with what you are saying; but, I will not use Angie's List for referrals again. Their "A" rated painter did some of the exact things they are now warning against; however, they are still rated "A". I sent in a review and it took eight weeks to post it. They allowed the contractor to lie about what happened as a response. I had proof and photos. Angie's List is a scam; instead ask neighbors and friends for referrals!
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Painters tend to establish a relationship with a particular store or brand of paint. If a painter is reluctant to use another product, it is fair to ask why. A potential contractor needs to be able to have facts to back-up why they use a certain brand. If you are being steered toward a low-cost product, find a different painting company. Most professionals do not use paint from the big box chain stores for many reasons and they know that you never get more than you pay for when it comes to paint.
Aren't those automatic sprinkler systems great! Not if they are getting your house or siding wet every day. Check that your sprinkler heads (and your neighbor's heads) are not spraying against the house, especially on any hardboard siding. The sprinkler head may not spray the house directly, the mist may drift with a light breeze or wind. This is another good reason to water in the early morning hours when the wind is generally calmer.
State your expectations. The number of coats a painter applies isn’t the only factor in determining the quality—and price—of the project. Preparation is also key. If you want a surface that’s free of unevenness from past paint jobs, tell the contractors—and be prepared to pay extra. But if you can live with some imperfections, agree on what level of prep is acceptable and what isn’t.